Tuesday, April 30, 2013

 
We have friends in Barbados who have bought property in North Carolina.. we kept hearing about how nice the mountains were and as we wanted to head back up north by a slightly different route.  we decided to spend a night in Asheville NC.  What a great idea that was.  We left St. Simon's Island around 9 in the morning and after a couple of stops we pulled into Asheville around 4pm.  This was the longest day of the trip, but the interstate highways are not busy and the drive was terrific.  Secret Santa had provided Peter with a boxed set of Stuart Mclean and we listened and laughted for about 4 hours of the trip!  We left the most beautiful, languid south, and ended up in the beautiful mountain air taking breathtaking views from Asheville.
We unpacked and headed out to explore.  It is not a very big place and we were able to drive the entire downtown area and see the many art galleries and restaurants and lots of students.  Most of them looking like they are trying out for a movie about the late 60's.   Great fun.
We have found that the best advice comes from fellow travellers... especially while sitting at the bar talking to the bartender.  We usually eat at the bar and have picked up great tips from the bartenders.. they are always outgoing, and helpful.    The same lovely man, Randy, who told us about going to see Beaufort SC, suggested if we got to Asheville not to miss the Grove Park Inn.  This hotel is now 100 years old, and in great nick.    All Arts and Crafts and Tiffany type lights.. In fact the American Society of Arts and Craft movement meets here every year.  The stone fireplaces are huge and working, the staff lovely and the views breathtaking.   We loved it.
We headed back to have dinner by our hotel(we were staying in the Biltmore District..five minutes from downtown) and had a really good dinner at a place called Reze in Biltmore district(should you find yourself in Asheville)
We spent part of the morning visiting the Biltmore estate.  The estate was built by the Vanderbuilt family to entertain family and friends.  It opened in 1895... has 43 bedrooms and most beautiful gardens.  The entrance driveway alone is three miles long.. and another four miles winding through the estate to leave.  The family, concerned by lack of employment in the area opened it for touring in 1930It is still owned and run by decendents and now employs 1800 people.  The gardens are famous, and many people who live in Asheville have season passes.   I would too.. We arrived around 9:30am and the place was already full of visitors.   Economic engine indeed.  But worth the ticket... what a treasure.


Monday, April 29, 2013

 
It is hard to compare Charleston and Savannah.  But both are very interesting and lovely cities.  Robin Russell who has lived in both SC and GA for many years puts it this way.
In Charleston they will ask who your parents are... In Savannah they will ask you what you want to drink!
A very nice Sunday morning drive tooks us to the wonderful home of Peter's cousin Joanie and husband Bill Roper in St. Simons Island..a drive of about 11/2 hours south of Savannah.  What  lovely spot they have.  They are on an esturary and their house is settled in a beautiful wood with lots of oak and Spanish moss.(which is neither Spanish nor moss.)  We went for lunch and then a drive around to see the sites.  The climate is great here most of the year.  They assure me that it is not unbearably hot in the summer.  Where they are situated gets a breeze all year and of course lots of shade, and  they have a beautiful pool where we spent lots of time chatting and catching up.
THe house has a most amazing kitchen.  Joanie has three dishwashers,!  and produced a delious dinner... and lots of wonderful starters which we had with drinks.. 
Lots of wine and laughter.. Great night.  Off to Asheville in the moming.


Sunday, April 28, 2013

 
We did something totally "touristy" last night and went on the dinner cruise on a river boat.    Let us say one does not do these things for the food, but it was such a lovely evening and a great night for it.. and grand time had by all.
The evenings participants came in all sorts of sizes and colours and dress.  We had a wonderful entertainer on our deck who kept the party moving    He kept putting on music (he sort of played along) and all the women would jump up and dance... at one time he played something called the "electronic wave" which all seemed to know.. local ladies celebrating a birthday and a nice lady my age from Colorado ,,, and later on something called the Harlem shuffle all the women hit the floor  Like a code of some sort.   I asked a man standing beside me what it was all about.. he reported he had been to a convention in Atlanta, and when the Harlem Shuffle started all the women hit the floor (thousands of them!)   The best thing I could think of is they have all been to line dancing class. All shapes and colours up there shaking it!  And were they have a ball. 
When we arrived on the boat early, to watch the proceedings on the River Walk, we met a wedding party.  They had had the top deck to themselves and had their wedding at five oclock(captain married them)  and then they stayed on to have their dinner and dancing with the rest of us.  They were a group of about 10.. had their own table and were feted by the rest of us with great applause when they took their wedding dance. I thought this was a very fun cost effective way to have a wedding.  Service on the river boat with the great back ground,  busker musicians down below (one particularly great trumpet player) seranading.. and then a nice boat trip. 
A great night  nice stroll back to the hotel, a little Brit tv on PBS and to pack...
If you are following along, ignore the dates on the postings..  As I write this is is Sunday Morning, Aprill 28th.
 Off to St Simon's island, GA.

 
We had a lovely stroll through the market area(once again pleased our hotel is so convenient to the historic area).  Of course if you have watched as much of the Food Channel as I have you have to make a stop at "The Lady and Sons" .  This is the restaurant owned by the ubiquitous Paula Deen.  Paula always used to make me laugh as she would  go through about four pounds of butter in every episode.  She now has full blown diabetes and has changed her tune a bit.
 It is a very popular buffet restaurant... lots of tourists lined up to get in.  We did pop into the giftstore next door.. and I got a cook book.  Her son Bobby had undertaken to try and bring the southern recipes down a bit in calories and fat.  Good luck with that! Still I did notice that the key may be portions size according to Bobby.  What  a surprise!  The patrons of the buffet in the restaurant were not worried about portion size I can tell you.
We discovered that in Ellis Square they had set up a portable screen to show a movie.  This square had been a mutliplex story parking lot till a few years ago.  Savannah City ripped it down, built 1000 spaces underneath and put the square complete with fountain on the top.  And it is now one of the 22 squares in the two and a half square mile historic area.  Yes, there do turn the fountain off when they show movies.   The movie was called Gospel, according to a nice group of kids I asked. 
The historic area as we know it now, is quite new.  The old  houses were here, all right, but many of the streest and squares were very run down till the quite recently.  What a job they have done to restore the houses and parks.  One of the main drivers of all of this is SOCD .. Savannah College of Art and Design.  This institution started in 1979 with 80 students.  It is now housed in some beautiful new buildings(one designed by Moise Safdi) and others is wonderful restored old factories and warehouses.. Really is the engine to all this restoration.  And  13000 students now attend from every state and many countries.  
We enjoyed our tour so much yesterday, we went on another tour today,this time by trolley.  We saw some familiar places and some that were new to us.     Many of the squares were being used by groups on this lovely Saturday afternoon. You can book a square and we saw a wedding in full flight in one of them    I am sure the good folks of Savannah are used to the tour trolleys and horse and buggies complete with commentary going by.   They probably tune the whole thing out by now.  
We had such a nice time yesterday at "The Cafe" in the market we went back for lunch.  Of course it could be the peach sangria that was pulling me back! 

Friday, April 26, 2013

 
Historic Savannah is quite different from Charleston.   We spent our first evening strolling around by our hotel and then to the Riverside full of lovely bars and restaurant.  We found ourselves on the top of the Bohemian and sat with a fun couple from Kingston ON.  They were originally in the book business in the maritimes... sold out before books became reduntant, and now spend 6 months in Kingston and 5 months in Florida and a month driving home..  They have downsized so much they can fit all their possessions in their car and rent.  I thought we had done a good job of downsizing... these guys are pros!
We had such a lovely day today.  A very dear old friend, Robin Russell, came to pick us up and take us on a private horse and buggy ride through out historic Savannah.. It was simply an enchanting trip with a very knowledgeable guide.  This place is totally differnt from Charleston... the colony was founded a bit late than the Carolinas.. The British thought they could stop the Spanish coming up from Florida.
And because it was always considered that the colony would be attacked.. so the whole are was built around squares... they could be defended, arms could be stored and citizens could be rounded up and moved from one to the other.. And lots of tales told by the guide of revolutionary and civils wars.. Still a topic of their historic past, very close the the surface.
We had a lovely catch up lunch in the market area.. lovely lunch.. had an appetiser portion of smoked salmon and could have fed four people with it..
Simply a lovely day... beautiful city shown around by an old friend.



Thursday, April 25, 2013

 
We had another nice evening in Charleston our last night in Charleston.  South Carolina has a very interesting history.  The current Governor is a woman of Asian desent which is amazing in itself considering you do not go very far here without being aware or race and politics.
The previous governor was Mark Sanford.  He was the character who disappeared for awhile..  No one could find him.. not his staff or his wife.  He said he was hiking in the Appallacian Mountains.  Actually he was visiting his mistress in Argentina.  While he was still govenor.  He did finish his term although impreached.  One would think that would pretty much finish him... Not at all... there is a race going on right now to fill a vacant seat for Congress.  He is running... against a women named Elizabeth Colbert Bush.  She is Stephen Colbert's sister!  You cannot make this stuff up.
We went to the roof bar on the Vendue Hotel, another lovely place and then back to the High Cotton Restaurant-- all in the very well preserved historic District.  We really enjoyed this place.. great staff and some good jazz.   It was a lucky visit... We met a nice guy from Charlotte NC who travels for work through the whole south.  He was orginally from Detroit and was a huge hockey fan.  We took bit of a beating for being Leaf fans(no surprise there.) When we told him we thought we would stop by Hilton Head just to see it, he informed us it was totally filled with fast food outlets and golf courses.. Why didn't we go to Beaufort instead?
So we did... and what a treat this was and how totally fascinating.  Beaufort City(small) and Beaufort County on Port Royal Island, one of the many Sea Islands that dot coast.  This area is called the low country and we could really see why in the drive there.
We had a wonderful guide who took us on a very interesting horse and buggy tour of Beaufort.  Talk about a place that had a window on American history.  Beaufort was taken by the British in the Revolutionary war and by the North in the Civil war and thus was never burned or looted.  They made their headquarters there. I would have been very sad to have missed this place.   Absolutely loved it and bought a little history book to bring to the cottage to remind me all about it.
I particularly loved the signs posted on the South Carolina highway when there are maintenance crews on the road:  "keep 'em working, keep 'em living. "

Wednesday, April 24, 2013

 
It has been great fun planning rhis trip.  One of the things that became clear was to stay in the Historic district.   We are staying in Charleston at the Marriot Courtyard and the trip advisor site commends the concierge service at the hotel as being one of the best in town.
So while Peter was checking in and parking the car, I was at the desk making plans.  We had a great gal names Elizabeth and we had our two days planned in no time.   At her suggestion we walked to Market Square Inn and their lovely roof garden.   The weather is still a bit chilly but the bar is filled with very smart heaters.. Of course walking the streets are simply enchanting.   This whole part of the city is a protected site.  And yes, around 50000 people actually live in the historic district. The roof bar was on the river across from the most beautiful Custom House.
We went to High Cotton to listen to some jazz and to sit at the bar and have some supper.
Today we spent the morning on a two hour walking tour with a very good guide.  Everything here is preserved so houses are here representing the years since inception in late 1600s.
In behind the iron gates are most beautiful gardens.   The old estates that had carriage houses, outside kitchens and slave quarters are now broken up and these dwellings are have been converted into houses. And now the historic district housing is very expensive.  Our guide took us by his own family home, now sold.. He now lives in the district of Mount Pleasant.  I really enjoyed the tour..   We passed the grave yard where two signers of the Declaration of Indepence are buried.. Four of the signees were from South Carolina.  The city and its militia played a big part in both the War of Independence and the Civil War.  
We walked street after street  of the most beautiful houses .. hard to take it all in.
We had a taxi waiting for us to take us, first to Ted's Butcher Block for lunch.. great pulled pork sandwiches and the to the boat terminal for a tour by boat of the Charleston harbour.  It may be tourism that bring so many people here.. but it is the port that drives the economy.  It is a huge container port, very protected.  We had noticed when coming into the city yesterday trains pulling containers with soft sides.  They were marked car movers.... It turns out BMW has a big factory nearby and cars and parts come back and forth from Europe through here.  The weather has finally warmed up.. the afternoon was simply beautiful out on the water.    It would appear things are doing quite well in this part of South Carolina.  



Tuesday, April 23, 2013

 
As I write this we have just arrived in Charleston South Carolina.  We are now truly into the car trip part of the trip.  Yesterday we drove from Virginia to Raleigh North Carolina.  The weather has been very cool but dry.  Good driving weather really.  We had no reason to head for Raleigh, but just a good place to stop on the way south.  We actually just checked into the hotel and stayed in for the night with a send out dinner. We are doing various Marriots all the way.  I had originally thought we might like the band b route... Excepting the thought of lugging lots of luggage up flights of stairs and trying to find parking spots, especially in Charlottetown and Savannah seemed quite beyond me.   So far it has been a very good decision.   We had a great little place last night.. even included breakfast.
Our drive in broken into four to five hour days.. and we stop about every two hours for coffee and lunch.
The interstates and highways in the states are really in great shape.  They are usually are divided . Each state seems to have slightly different speed laws and we are careful to obey.  
I think if I lived here and was doing a lot of driving I would subscribe to satellite radio.  We tend to try and find the local National Public Radio station.. but they do not last long and the static comes back.
So then we change the stations and run into lots and lots of gospel and religious stations.  Today we stumbled across Fox.. that was an interesting outing.   I  tried to keep an open mind but Russ Limbugh, Glen Beck certainly keeps you awake in the car, as Peter says.    It is hard to be in the states for any time and not pick up on the polarization going on here.  I do not know what the answer would be. No one seems to have a middle postion on anything.. or ever say "on the other hand"
The good news is I feel postively Twiggy like around here.    I cannot begin to describe the size of the helpings.  We stopped for a coffee today at a place called the Huddle House.  Have you even seen their menu?  Absolutley everything is fried.. and then they add sausage and bacon plus biscuits and gravy as well.   There was ONE salad on the menu and it came loaded with cheddar cheese.  The customers looked the part to be sure.The other day we had a small soup and split a sandwich... and still could have fed four.   We are trying to get a good walk in when we arrive at our destinations each day to compensate a bit.   Now to wander and see the sites of this most beautful of cities.   There will be a lot of walking here.




Monday, April 22, 2013

 
A very early start Sunday and we are off on our driving through the south trip.  The weather is lovely , but not warm.  Still the highways are dry and the sun is out.  We left New York state and our drive went through parts of New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland and West Virginia.. and we arrived at the beautiful home of our friends Lionel and Ann Chisholm in Millwood Virginia.   They moved from Toronto 20 years ago..They lived for many years in Morganstown W Virginia, where Lionel was a teacher at the University plus eye surgeon.  But each weekend they came to the area around Milllwood to ride and hunt.
We had a great catch up, and supper..  They have built the most beautiful house ..their dream house which they designed and had built.   We had followed this progress for years so we were so hapy to finally catch up and see their dream for ourselves.  Nothing like a great visit with old friends......
Up early on Monday and a good drive to Raleigh NC.  We went for a good walk around the hotel.. setlled in for a quiet night and a take out dinner.  Tomorrow... Charleston South Carolina .

 
We spent Saturday afternoon packing.. and then went up to Mary's apartment to say good bye to Lulu and Bill(who was going to  a basket ball game)  Lulu is growing up so fast, but we are always so grateful that we get to spend such a lovely time with her.    The Chamness family had moved within the building since our last visit.  What a lovely apartment they have now.  Lulu has a huge room which she loves, especially as it is painted very pink!
Mary Maggie and ourselves then went to the West Village to have dinner and catch up with our good friend Michael Riedel.  He writes for the New York Post.. And so our time in New York came to an end.   Simple a wonderful time and we will try not to miss Lulu too much.



 
Friday April 19th.  Lulu's third birthday.  She could very proudly tell you it was her birthday and she was three years old.  We took her that morning to the Brooklyn Museum which she really loves.  We went on the recommendation of our friend, Corrie Scott to see the very large display of the work of the African artist El Atatsui.  They are truly beautiful and very hard to explain.. but a good example is on the Brooklyn Museum web site.  Lulu likes them, but to be frank, she is more interested in running around the large lobby and looking at the sculpture.  And she could not wait to show me the display cases where she "read" the description of the contents.

And as a treat we all went to Shake Shack.. hots dogs and French fries.

We went to a lovely little restaurant for an early dinner.  I just loved the idea that families go aroun 5:30 with very young children and are so welcomed.  We had brought a cake and she was very happy to blow out her candles!
Peter and I walked after dinner to visit our pal Tony, the bar tender at Marco Polo.  Marco Polo bar and restaurant is very near to Bill and Mary's original Brooklyn apartment, and we went often when we were in Brooklyn when Lulu was born.  Tony has worked at Marco Polo for many years, and he and his wife have bought their house on 3rd ave.. One daughter goes to Hunter College and the other will start at La Guardia High School (of Fame, fame!) .  He is from Portugal and is already starting to talk about next years World Cup.
Of course we spent our time watching the unfolding story from Boston, which occupied us all week.

April 20th.. Lulu's birthday party.. nearly 30 kids and parents invited for 10 am.   Their condo building has a wonderful play room in the lower lever which is attached to a big lounge... Maggie helped with the set up, and Lulu's wonderful baby sitter Chandler, provide activities with dancing, and clapping and singing (which Lulu loved).  There were juices, muffins and bagels(small sized) lots of coffee, flavoured waters, lots of cut up fruit( my contribution) birthday cake made by Mary and a lovely time was had by all.  Kids were all great and everyone was gone, and the place totatlly cleaned up by 12:15. All very fun and relaxed ... well done indeed.

Friday, April 19, 2013

 
A visit to MOMA... Always so much to see.. highlight for me was Claes Oldenberg... all kinds of wonderful objects he produced in the late fifties and early sixties.. Soft sculptures of familiar objects... so instead of bronze soldiers on horses he brought us a huge hamburger.. Remember the fuss when the AGO bought the hamburger?  Now that very piece was part of the restropective.  Such fun to see it here in NY. Also some wonderful pieces by Henri Rousseau.. I never realized before that even though he painted wonderous canvasses of jungles he never left Paris.  ..Another artist featured was Munsch... Even had one of his scream pictures.
We bumped into Maggie.. so we took her to lunch at one of our favourites.  Rue 57 at 57th and 6th
We had a wonderful evening at Judy and Doug Henderson .  We met Doug in the fall of 1962 when he returned from the Yukon working with Martyn Fowlds on the Foxie show in Dawson.  He has always been a back stage techie guy He met Judy when he was on tour with the Canadian opera company and moved to New York after he and Judy married.  She is a top casting director now.. she won an Emmy for her work on Heartland.. Doug retired from being a carpentar for the Metropolitan Opera Company some years ago, and being a very talented guy, did renovations on houses for stars!
They live in a house on the upper west side which Doug has totally renovated.  And we always love spending time with them.   We just pick up where we left off.  
Now to see Lulu.. it is her third birthday..  She is very excited!!! 


 


Thursday, April 18, 2013

 
Wednesday started with a trip to the bank with Lulu to deposit her birthday money.. then a trip to the Brooklyn Macy's for new shoes.  Then Lulu came home to get ready to go to her first sojourn to the theatre.  We had decided on Annie, currently in a revival here on Broadway.  She was very excited, Chandler her babysitter, got her dressed, and off we went on the A train.
We had a bit of a walk from the station at the Broadway end.  Lulu took it all in stride, including walking through the thousands of people going to Wednesday matinees.
She loved it, sat through the whole thing, and entertained us with her own version on the way home.
Mary, Bill Maggie and Peter all went to the Barclay Center to see a basketball game(home team won!) and I stayed and looked after Lulu.  When I put her to bed she told me she was not going to sleep... because she was on the stage.  And she was singing Tomorrow Tomorrow... I suspect this will not be her last journey to the theatre.   For the last few years Peter keeps asking me if she is old enough to go to Radio City Music Hall to see the Christmas show... This will be the year!!

Wednesday, April 17, 2013

 
Busy Tuesday. Peter and I took the subway uptown, walked around 5th ave..  Such a great part of Manhatten.  And of course a trp to the Mother ship Apple store, Peter found a jacket at Saks 5th Ave, I found some new shoes and then we made a visit to the Museum of Modern Arts Gift Store!
We were on Lulu duty in the afternoon.  We had lunch first at the Henry St. Pub then onto Grace Church to pick Lulu up from her nusery school. Lots of fun Lulu time.. She is very articulate now and can explain what is happening very well.  She knows her way around her building, which elevator button to push for each floor, what subway train number to take to go where, and mostley she loves to dance!
Then Maggie Peter and I went to see Alex Baldwin in preview of Orphans which will open on Thursday.  Great play.. supper after and back to Brooklyn .  Mary and Bill are so well located with transportation. We caugtht the A train back, under 30 minutes door to door from time we left the restaurant.
Of course news still full of Boston......




Tuesday, April 16, 2013

 
Just a little addition to the Greenpoint trip.  The ferry runs on the east river between Wall Street, three stops in Brooklyn and back to Manhatten around 34th street.  We walked to the ferry station about 30 minutes from Mary's.   Mary Bill and Lulu live in what is called Downtown Brooklyn.  They are close to Brooklyn Heights, and DUMBO on one side and the new Barclay centre on the other.  Simply the best location if you like to walk.   And they have a huge amount of subway station within a few blocks of their apartment.   
Lulu will tell you which train to take to get where. .... take the F train for this stop or Q line for Canal street.  
Of course yesterday, a pall cast by the terible news from Boston.


Monday, April 15, 2013

 
We had a great Sunday.. a dim sum brunch with the family and friends in China town.  A huge restaurant and a huge number of people both on the street.  Walking around was great fun,
We brought Lulu back for a nap(well she really no longer naps) but sort of has quiet time.  Bill came back ro relieve us and we went for a nap!  Then we went off to Mayfield in Crown Heights for a dinner at a new restaurant owned by son of friends.. called Mayfield.. absolutley fantastic

Monday we went with Lulu and her baby sitter Chandler to Lulu's music class. She absolutely loves it.. lots of clapping and dancing .. Lulu loves to dance. We spent the day between play room, visiting our apartment and going by river boat to have pizza in Greenpoint. Brooklyn.
Really an amazing place New York.  Lulu is now very grown up and a really good little girl.  Simply a joy to be with.






Sunday, April 14, 2013

 
We had a very nice run from Binghamton to Brooklyn... For those of you who follow these things Interstate 81 to 84 to 87 to 278.. exit Tilary Street Brooklyn.

Met by Mary and Lulu and Bill.. Then a knock and in came Maggie back from her adverntures in Europe.. laterly a driving trip in Scotland with Emily Harrison nee Long.

And then we settlled into the two bedroom, two bath apartment in the same building as the Chamness gang.  It is a great spot and once again we are very happy with our VRBO choice.
One exceptional feature. It has no tv, but a projector on the wall... Very cool indeed

Mary and Bill took up our offer of babysitting and there headed out and we settled in to watch three episodes of House of Cards on Net FLICKS... great showl.    Mary and Bill were not able to get cable in their new apartment(due to having to run cables and put holes in the walls... so they now subscribe to all kinds of services which come in on the net .   Of course there are many plans for the week.. concluding with Lulu's third birthday party on Saturday.  I will keep posting.

Saturday, April 13, 2013

 
One more thing about Binghamton. A company based here in Binghamton and its suburb Endicott , combined with others in the US to become IBM in the early 1900's   No wonder the university here is known for excellence.. Things you learn on the road.

Friday, April 12, 2013

 
We are finally underway.  Our original plan was to head from Toronto to Rochester and have dinner with our friends from Contsellation Wines whose headquarters are there last night.   The Toronto ice storm(also occuring in Rochester) put stop to that.  So today, April 12, saw a new plan.. a stop in Binghamton NY and another 5 hour run into Brooklyn tomorrow.
Something about Binghampton  rang a bell and when I checked I discovered that the university here is a one of the most highly regarding public universities in the USA.--part of SUNY-  YOu need great grade to come here.. has lots of international students.. lots of grad students and a huge amount or research grants.
They have a performing arts centre on campus.. with three theatre spaces.  The main hall seats 1100 , and can fit a 80 piece orchestra in the pit! Right here in Binghamton NY which believe me is off the beaten path.. Fascinating.
If you ever find yourself here, go to Number 5 for dinner.  It is in an old firehall.. wonderful staff, great food and amazing price , a really terrific wine list and plent of choice by the glass, and a well placed bar which can be used for both sports and band and dancing.   We love it and kept thinking Maggie would give it five stars for covering all the bases without giving away one.
One to Brooklyn tomorrow.

Saturday, April 06, 2013

 
Just testing... big road trip coming up...

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